The Vogue Business Paris Fashion Week AW24 digest

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After a record 108 shows and presentations this season, including Louis Vuitton’s 4,000-guest mega-show celebrating 10 years of creative director Nicolas Ghesquière (with a number of Louis Vuitton collaborators attending the occasion) and Saint Laurent’s 100-guest intimate menswear show closing the curtain on Paris Fashion Week, plus much-anticipated debuts at Alexander McQueen, Chloé and Lacoste, there’s a lot to digest after Paris Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2024.

Major houses and emerging designers alike took steps to carve out their place in the packed calendar, striving to stand out. As buyers and press board their trains and planes back home, we break down the season’s key takeaways.

Brands buck quiet luxury and return to their roots

This season, brands looked inward to refocus on their heritage and what they do best rather than grasp at overarching trends. “It feels like brands are returning to their respective DNAs after a few seasons of quiet luxury,” says Victoria Dartigues, fashion buying director at La Samaritaine.

At Chloé, Chemena Kamali’s debut, already recognised for igniting the return of boho-chic, was a case in point. “After seasons anchored in understated wardrobing, we saw Paris as a turning point away from the blanket of hushed clothes. Chemena Kamali’s feminine flair at Chloé and her celebratory finale pinpointed a mood shift,” says Rickie De Sole, women’s fashion director at Nordstrom. “The playful colour palettes at Miu Miu and Dries Van Noten offer the perfect bridge to mix the last few seasons’ darker, sombre colours with vibrant and pastel tones again.”

Isabel Marant also returned to its boho roots “with a bit of a gaucho vibe”, as Vogue Runway’s Mark Holgate noted. Think short, fringed sarape skirts; blanket coats; suede scarves. “We don’t do quiet luxury. We do unquiet luxury,” Marant told Holgate during a preview.

“Whether it’s the result of the world’s uncertainties, or the end of big fashion cycles — streetwear or quiet luxury — [brands returning to their heritage] was visible across the board,” says Anouck Duranteau-Loeper, CEO of Isabel Marant and president of the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Féminine.